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Recherche et développement d’ingrédients cosmétiques innovants favorisant la réparation cutanée à partir de matières premières naturelles d’origine méditerranéenne

Abstract : The cosmetic industry is governed by consumers’ expectations for natural products with proven efficacy, to which formulators reply by the integration of natural and eco-designed actives in those products. This PhD work focussed on the development of such innovative cosmetic actives favouring wound healing from Mediterranean plant materials. The biological activities of a hundred natural extracts from 77 raw materials were screened using in vitro assays (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-age -anti-hyaluronidase, anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities-activities). Among them, a total of 28 plants turned out to be especially interesting, and three were selected in this work frame. The germander (Teucrium lucidum L.) was selected because its Mediterranean endemicity, and as its phytochemistry was only cursorily studied. The downy oak (Quercus pubescens Willd.) and the Brignoles plum tree (Prunus domestica L.) were selected because they are regional agricultural by-products, which are therefore very interesting to valorise. This study focussed on the phytochemical characterization of germander extracts obtained by maceration of aerial parts of germander and promote wound healing. Eight main compounds were isolated and identified by NMR; only three of them were previously described in the Teucrium gender. Further five compounds were also characterized; none of them has previously been described in T. lucidum. Furthermore, the study consisted in the design of the methodology of development of liquid and solid natural cosmetic ingredients, from the supply of raw materials to the ingredients’ integration in finished cosmetic products. This methodology was illustrated by the study of the two agricultural by-products selected beforehand, namely the downy oak and the Brignoles plum tree. It allowed to identify the steps to adapt to each plant material according to its phytochemical composition.
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Hortense Plainfossé. Recherche et développement d’ingrédients cosmétiques innovants favorisant la réparation cutanée à partir de matières premières naturelles d’origine méditerranéenne. Chimie analytique. COMUE Université Côte d'Azur (2015 - 2019), 2019. Français. ⟨NNT : 2019AZUR4102⟩. ⟨tel-02879832⟩

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